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FAQ ON ANTIQUES

Over more than 30 years of buying and handling antiques, jewellery, silver, watches, coins and unusual objects, I have been asked thousands of questions about age, condition, authenticity and value.

Below are answers to some of the questions I hear most often. They are intended as general guidance, because small details such as maker, condition, construction, provenance and originality can make a significant difference to an individual item.

If you have something you would like me to look at, you are welcome to send photographs on WhatsApp, arrange a private appointment at my Haywards Heath office or book a free home visit.
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1. How do I research the value of an antique I own?
Start by identifying exactly what you have. Look for maker’s marks, signatures, hallmarks, labels or other clues that may help establish the maker, date or origin. Condition, rarity, quality, provenance and current collector demand can all affect value. Completed auction results can also be useful, but make sure you compare genuinely similar items rather than relying only on asking prices online. If you are unsure, you can send me clear photographs on WhatsApp for an initial opinion. For items that need closer inspection, I can arrange a private office appointment in Haywards Heath or a free home visit.

2. I want to sell my antiques. How can Antiques of Sussex help?
I buy a wide range of antiques, jewellery, silver, watches, coins, medals, fine art and collectables. You can send photographs first for an initial opinion, visit my Haywards Heath office by appointment or arrange a free private home visit across much of Sussex. I will look carefully at the items, explain what I can see and, if they are of interest to me, make a straightforward offer. There is no obligation to sell. If you decide to proceed, payment is made by secure bank transfer and I make sure the money is in your account before I leave.
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You can also see more about the types of antiques I buy on my Sell Antiques page.

3. Do you offer free home visits across Sussex?
Yes. I offer free private home visits across much of East and West Sussex and selected surrounding areas. A home visit can be particularly useful if you have jewellery, watches, coins, silver, antiques, inherited items or a larger group of objects that you would prefer not to transport. I assess the items with you present, explain what I can see and there is no obligation to sell.
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You can also see exactly what happens during a home visit in my Free Home Valuation guide.

4. How do I know if something is a genuine antique or just old?
In the antiques trade, items around 100 years old or more are commonly described as antiques, although definitions can vary depending on the context. Age alone does not prove authenticity. I look for things such as construction methods, materials, wear, maker’s marks, signatures and whether the piece is consistent with the period it is supposed to come from. For example, hand-cut dovetails on furniture, pontil marks on glass and traditional manufacturing techniques can all provide useful clues. Reproductions can sometimes imitate age, so the whole object needs to be considered rather than relying on one feature.
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5. What is the difference between an antique, a vintage item and a collectable?
An antique is generally understood in the trade to be around 100 years old or more. A vintage item is usually younger than an antique but has some age and reflects a particular period or style. A collectable can be almost anything that people actively collect, regardless of age. Coins, medals, ceramics, watches, toys and jewellery can all be collectable. The terms often overlap in everyday use, so the quality, rarity, condition and collector interest of the individual
item are usually more important than the label itself. 

6. Is old gold or jewellery sometimes worth more than its scrap value?
Yes. Gold content is only one part of the picture. I also look at the maker, age, design, condition, gemstones, rarity and collector interest. Some antique, vintage or signed jewellery can be worth more as a complete piece than it would be purely for its metal content. When I assess older gold or jewellery, I look at the item as a whole rather than simply weighing it.
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You can read more about how I assess gold and jewellery on my Sell Gold page.
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If you want to understand 375 gold in more detail, see my guide to what 375 means on gold.

7. What should I know about identifying and valuing antique silver?
British silver hallmarks can tell you a great deal about an item. They may indicate the silver standard, assay office, maker and date. Sterling silver is normally marked with the lion passant, while Britannia standard silver has its own distinctive marks. Maker, age, quality, rarity, condition and form can all affect value. A well-made antique silver piece by a desirable maker may be worth considerably more than its metal content alone. If you have silver you are unsure about, clear photographs of the item and its hallmarks are often enough for me to give an initial opinion.
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You can read more about silver hallmarks, value and the types of silver I buy on my Sell Silver page.
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If you want help understanding hallmarks, see my guide on How To Read Silver Hallmarks.

8. How do I identify antique jewellery, diamonds and gemstones?
Age, style, construction, hallmarks, gemstones and maker’s marks can all help identify antique jewellery. Georgian, Victorian, Edwardian, Art Nouveau and Art Deco jewellery each have characteristic designs and manufacturing techniques. With diamonds, important factors include cut, carat weight, clarity and colour. Older pieces may contain cuts such as Old Mine or Old European cut diamonds, which look quite different from modern brilliant cuts. The setting, metal, maker and condition can also have a major effect on value.
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9. What are maker’s marks and hallmarks, and why are they important?
Maker’s marks are stamps, signatures or symbols used to identify the person or company responsible for making an item. Hallmarks can also provide information about precious-metal purity, assay office and sometimes date.

 

Together, these marks can help establish:
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  • who made the piece

  • where it was made

  • approximately when it was made

  • whether it is consistent with a known maker

  • whether the maker adds collector interest or value​

 
I have spent many years handling objects with hallmarks, signatures and maker’s marks, although some marks need further research before they can be identified reliably. 
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10. I’ve inherited a collection of antiques or jewellery. Where should I start?
Do not feel that you need to identify or sort everything yourself before getting in touch. Start by keeping the items together and avoid cleaning, polishing or discarding anything until you have a better idea of what is there. You can send me photographs for an initial look, or for larger collections I can arrange a free private home visit. Inherited collections often contain a mixture of obvious and less obvious items, so I prefer to look at the group carefully rather than making assumptions based only on appearance. 
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You can read more about how I help with inherited jewellery and family collections on my Inherited Jewellery page.

Have something you'd like me to look at? Send photos on WhatsApp or arrange a free home visit

Ready to Get in Touch?
If you have antiques, jewellery, silver, watches, coins or another item you'd like me to look at, send me a few photographs or arrange a free private appointment. I would be happy to hear from you.

11. Do you buy entire collections or groups of items?
Yes, depending on what the collection contains. I am happy to look at individual items, small groups or larger collections of jewellery, watches, coins, silver, medals, antiques and other collectables. For larger groups, a home visit is often the easiest option because the items can remain with you while I assess them. If something is outside my area of knowledge or interest, I would rather say so than pretend otherwise. 

12. Should I clean or polish an item before showing it to you?
Usually, no. The safest general rule is: when in doubt, do less rather than more. Harsh chemicals, abrasive cleaners and aggressive polishing can remove original finishes, wear down hallmarks or damage surfaces. Patina, original finish and signs of age can sometimes be important to value. If you are thinking of selling or identifying an item, it is usually better to let me see it in its current condition
first.
 
13. Is it better to restore a damaged antique or leave it as it is?
It depends on the item. Restoration can sometimes improve an object, but it can also reduce value if too much original material, finish or character is removed. For valuable or historically important pieces, conservation is often preferable to heavy restoration.
Original surfaces, finishes and signs of age can be part of what makes an antique desirable.
If you are unsure whether restoration may affect value, it is usually worth getting advice before doing anything irreversible.

14. What does “patina” mean and why can it matter?
Patina refers to the surface appearance that develops naturally over time through age, handling, oxidation and use. Examples include the warm surface of old wood, aged bronze or natural toning on old silver. Patina can be an important part of an antique’s appearance, character and evidence of age. Removing it through aggressive cleaning or refinishing can sometimes reduce value. For that reason, I am always cautious about cleaning or refinishing an old surface before understanding exactly what the object is.

15. What makes an antique valuable? Is it just age?
Age is only one factor. Value can depend on:

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  • rarity

  • condition

  • provenance

  • maker or artist

  • quality of craftsmanship

  • originality

  • authenticity

  • current market demand

 
An object can be very old and still have relatively modest value, while a younger item by an important maker may be highly sought after. When I assess an item, I normally look at these factors together rather than judging value on age alone.

16. What types of antiques, watches and collectables are currently in demand?
Demand changes over time. Quality watches, antique and vintage jewellery, interesting silver, coins, medals, Art Deco pieces, good decorative objects and certain well-made antiques can all attract strong interest. But there is no category that rises permanently. Quality, rarity, condition, maker and current demand usually matter more than simply following a trend.
 
17. Do you buy watches, coins and military medals?
Yes. I buy a range of wristwatches and pocket watches, including vintage, gold and luxury examples. I am also interested in British and foreign coins, sovereigns, proof sets, medals and selected militaria. Age alone does not determine value, so I look at maker, condition, rarity, material, historical interest and collector demand.
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You can read more about the watches I buy on my Sell Watches page, and more about coins and medals on my Coins & Medals page.

18. How can I tell if antique furniture is solid wood or veneered?
Look carefully at the edges, corners, drawer fronts and underside of the piece. With solid wood, the grain will often continue naturally through the material. With veneer, the decorative surface layer may have a different grain from the timber underneath, and you may be able to see a thin edge or seam. Damage can also reveal whether there is a different base timber below the surface. It is worth remembering that veneer is not necessarily a sign of poor quality. Fine cabinetmakers have used high-quality veneers for centuries.

19. What are the main differences between Georgian, Victorian and Edwardian furniture?
Georgian furniture generally dates from 1714 to 1837 and is often associated with elegant proportions, symmetry and classical influence. Mahogany and walnut were widely used. Victorian furniture dates from 1837 to 1901 and covers a very broad range of styles. It can be heavier and more decorative, with Gothic, Rococo and Renaissance influences appearing during the period. Edwardian furniture dates from the early 20th century and often became lighter and more delicate in appearance. Mahogany, satinwood and decorative inlay were popular. Construction, timber, hardware, proportions and signs of later alteration all need to be considered when dating a particular piece.

20. What should I look for when identifying antique clocks, ceramics or glass?
Each area has its own identifying features. 
 
Antique clocks:
Look at the movement, dial, maker’s name, case and whether the main components appear original to one another.

Ceramics:
Maker’s marks, factory marks, decoration, shape, condition and quality are important. Chips, cracks and restoration can affect value.

Glass:
Look at colour, form, manufacturing technique, pontil marks, wear and condition. Hand-blown, cut and pressed glass can all have different characteristics.

Recognised makers can add value, but quality and condition still matter.



I hope these answers have helped explain some of the things I look for when handling antiques.
Every object is different, and sometimes the most interesting pieces are the ones that are difficult to identify at first glance. If you have an antique, piece of jewellery, silver, a watch, coins or another item you would like me to look at, you can send photographs on WhatsApp, call me directly or arrange a private appointment. There is no obligation to sell. 

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